Enable model upgrade popup even when selected model is no longer in picker (#8802)

With `config.toml`:
```
model = "gpt-5.1-codex"
```
(where `gpt-5.1-codex` has `show_in_picker: false` in
[`model_presets.rs`](https://github.com/openai/codex/blob/main/codex-rs/core/src/models_manager/model_presets.rs);
this happens if the user hasn't used codex in a while so they didn't see
the popup before their model was changed to `show_in_picker: false`)

The upgrade picker used to not show (because `gpt-5.1-codex` was
filtered out of the model list in code). Now, the filtering is done
downstream in tui and app-server, so the model upgrade popup shows:

<img width="1503" height="227" alt="Screenshot 2026-01-06 at 5 04 37 PM"
src="https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/26144cc2-0b3f-4674-ac17-e476781ec548"
/>

codex-rs/app-server/tests/suite/v2/model_list.rs

@@ -74,7 +74,7 @@ async fn list_models_returns_all_models_with_large_limit() -> Result<()> {
                 },
                 ReasoningEffortOption {
                     reasoning_effort: ReasoningEffort::XHigh,
-                    description: "Extra high reasoning for complex problems".to_string(),
+                    description: "Extra high reasoning depth for complex problems".to_string(),
                 },
             ],
             default_reasoning_effort: ReasoningEffort::Medium,